Quick answer: Buy a full-size solid beech kendama with a smooth, slightly tacky finish on the ball: it catches more predictably than a cheap painted one. A 5-way model gives you every catching point to grow into, while a 3-way covers the core cups and spike for less. Learn the big cup first, then the small cup, the base cup, the spike and finally the lighthouse.
A kendama looks like the simplest toy in the world: a wooden handle, a ball on a string, and a few cups to catch it in. Ten minutes later you understand why people get hooked. It rewards rhythm, patience and steady hands, needs no batteries and fits in a coat pocket. That makes it a popular pick for a screen-free hobby, a workshop break or a stocking filler. Here is how to choose a first kendama and what to practise, in order, once it arrives.
The parts of a kendama
The kendama is a traditional Japanese skill toy, and the parts keep their Japanese names:
- Ken: the handle, which ends in the spike (kensaki) at the top.
- Sarado: the cross-piece that sits on the ken, carrying the two side cups.
- Big cup (ozara) and small cup (kozara): the two cups on either end of the sarado.
- Base cup (chuzara): the shallow cup at the bottom of the ken.
- Tama: the ball, with a hole (ana) drilled to fit the spike.
- Ito: the string joining the tama to the ken.
3-way or 5-way?
Our range is listed as 3-way and 5-way kendamas. The 5-way listings, such as the orange 5-way kendama, describe the full set of catching points (big cup, small cup, base cup and spike), so every classic trick is available from day one. The 3-way listings, such as the blue 3-way kendama, describe the cups and spike for the core tricks and cost a little less.
If you are buying for yourself and expect to stick with it, the 5-way is the one to grow into. If it is a first try or a gift for a younger player, a 3-way is a sound start.
What makes a good first kendama
- Solid wood, not plastic. Ours are turned from solid beech, which is hard enough to take knocks and gives a consistent, predictable feel.
- A full-size ball. Several models in the range, such as the black-ball 3-way and the blue-ball 5-way, are listed at 18.5 cm tall with a 6 cm ball. That is a comfortable size for adult and older children's hands.
- The right finish. A smooth, slightly tacky lacquer helps the ball sit in a cup instead of skating off it. Very glossy, hard paint can feel slippery until it wears in.
- Good balance. The ball should hang straight and the cups should feel even. A well-balanced kendama makes learning faster because each catch is repeatable.
- A colour you can track. Some balls carry painted lines, like the black-lined 5-way. The lines show how the ball is turning in the air, which helps when you move on to spike tricks.
Five tricks to learn, in order
Hold the ken like a pencil or a dart, with the big cup on the left if you are right-handed, and let the ball hang still before every attempt. The secret of every trick is the knee bend: you lift the ball with your legs, not your arm, and you catch by bending your knees again to cushion the landing.
1. Big cup
Let the ball hang, dip your knees, and rise smoothly so the ball floats straight up. Bring the big cup under it and bend as it lands. Aim for ten in a row before moving on.
2. Small cup
The same move with a smaller target. It teaches you to lift the ball straight rather than letting it swing.
3. Base cup
Turn the kendama so the base cup faces up. The cup is shallow, so a soft landing matters more than ever.
4. Spike
Hold the ball rather than the ken, with the hole facing down, and let the ken hang. Pull the ball up and slightly back so the hole comes round to face the spike, then catch the spike in the hole. This is the trick most beginners are proudest of, and it takes the longest.
5. Lighthouse
Hold the ball in your palm and stand the ken upright on top of it, balanced on its base cup, then let go of the ken. Players then work up to pulling the ball up from a hanging start and landing straight into the balance. It is a balance trick rather than a catch, and it teaches the light, upward pull that later tricks build on.
Practice habits that help
- Little and often. Ten minutes a day beats an hour at the weekend, because the knee-bend rhythm is muscle memory.
- Count your streaks. "Ten big cups in a row" is a better target than "get better".
- Mind the room. A swinging wooden ball and a glass-fronted cabinet do not mix. Practise with space around you, and away from anyone sitting close by.
- Swap hands occasionally. It feels hopeless at first, but it evens out your timing.
Looking after your kendama
The string is the part that wears. Replace it when it starts to fray or stretch, and adjust the length so the ball hangs at a comfortable height for you. Keep the kendama out of damp places and direct heat, since wood moves and lacquer can soften. If the sarado works loose on the ken, push it back firmly into place before playing. Chips in the paint are normal with use, and many players think a worn kendama catches better than a new one.
Frequently asked questions
Is kendama hard to learn?
The first tricks are quick to pick up: most beginners land the big cup within a few minutes once they lift the ball with a knee bend rather than the arm. The spike takes longer, often days of short practice sessions. Ten minutes a day is the fastest way to improve.
What is the difference between a 3-way and a 5-way kendama?
In our range, the 5-way listings describe the full set of catching points: the big cup, small cup, base cup and spike. The 3-way listings describe the cups and spike for the core tricks and cost a little less. If you expect to stick with kendama, the 5-way is the one to grow into.
What size kendama should I buy?
A full-size kendama suits adults and older children. Several models in our range are listed at 18.5 cm tall with a 6 cm ball, made from solid beech. Pick a smooth, slightly tacky finish and a ball colour you can follow easily in the air.
How do I look after a wooden kendama?
Replace the string when it frays or stretches, and set its length so the ball hangs comfortably. Keep the kendama away from damp and direct heat, which can move the wood and soften the lacquer. If the cross-piece works loose, push it firmly back onto the handle before playing.
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