The piercing saw is the most-used tool on a working jeweller's bench, but it's also the one beginners get most wrong. Wrong frame depth, wrong blade TPI, wrong tension — any of those and you're either snapping blades or tearing through detail you should be cutting cleanly. This guide covers what actually matters when you're picking one for UK studio work.
Last updated: 18 May 2026.
Frame depth — match it to your work, not the other way round
The frame depth (the throat) sets the maximum distance you can cut from the edge of a sheet. Standard jeweller's frames are 50 mm (2"), 75 mm (3") or 100 mm (4") deep. A 75 mm frame is the bench standard — enough reach for pendant work and most fabrication, not so deep that the frame flexes during a cut.
Go bigger only when you actually need it. A 100 mm frame on small piercings makes the saw harder to control because the extra leverage amplifies hand wobble.
Blade size: what the numbers mean
Saw blades are graded by number, from 8/0 (finest) up through 6/0, 4/0, 2/0, 1, then 1, 2, 3 up to 14 (coarsest). The smaller the number — and the more zeros — the finer the blade. A useful rule of thumb: pick a blade where three teeth touch the metal at the thickness you're cutting.
- 0.4 mm sheet → 4/0 or 6/0
- 0.6 mm sheet → 2/0 or 3/0
- 1 mm sheet → 1 or 2
- 1.5 mm and up → 4 to 6
If the cut is chattering or you're losing teeth on the blade, you've gone too fine. If the cut is rough and tearing, you've gone too coarse.
Wood and bone — different rules
Spiral blades (saw rod blades) cut wood and bone where a flat blade would burn or jam. They cut in any direction without rotating the work. Slower than a flat blade on metal, faster on softwoods, and the only sensible choice for bone or horn detail work.
If you're piercing decorative inlays or doing combined wood+silver work, keep a packet of spiral blades and a packet of standard #2 blades on the bench.
Tension and grip — where blades go to die
Most snapped blades aren't the saw's fault. The two real failure modes:
- Loose tension. A correctly tensioned blade gives a clear ping when plucked. A dull thud means it's loose — and it'll bend, then snap on the next cut. Tighten the bottom screw, then bow the frame slightly when seating the top to add tension.
- Twisting grip. Saw vertically. Don't lean the frame into a curve. Turn the work, not the saw. A blade pushed sideways through metal is a blade about to break.
Common bench mistakes
Three patterns we see from beginners:
- Cutting on the up-stroke. The teeth point downward — cut on the down-stroke only, lift cleanly. Pushing up against the teeth dulls them in minutes.
- Lubricating with anything thick. Use beeswax, micro-lubricant or a touch of saw lube. Soap clogs the gullets, oil drags fingers — neither is the answer.
- Replacing blades too rarely. A blade with rounded teeth pushes harder than it cuts and overheats your work. New blades cost pennies. Swap them.
What to keep on the bench
For a small UK studio, our minimum stocking advice:
- One 75 mm jeweller's saw frame (adjustable for blade length is worth the small extra cost)
- A dozen each of #2/0, #1 and #4 blades
- One packet of spiral blades for occasional wood or bone
- Beeswax block
That's the lot. The rest is technique.
What we stock
Toolsmith holds jeweller's saw frames and blades in UK stock — beginner-friendly through to bench-pro. Free UK delivery on every order, same-day dispatch before 2pm.
Question about saw setup or which blade for a specific job? Email info@toolsmithltd.co.uk — we answer bench-to-bench.
